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Week
ending 3 Jan 04 (Bob)
New Year's Eve Party in Turkey -
A multi-cultural group met at the marina clubhouse for the end-of-year
celebration, and fun was had by all. Curry was the theme, and we had 6+
varieties ranging from spicy Thai curry provide by Judi to tasty lamb curry - we
were all so full we could barely participate in the parlor games that livened up
the evening. Luscious desserts and champagne topped off the evening as
most cruisers faded shortly after local midnight.
Quiet Week - Other than the party, the
week was pretty quiet, with a few boat chores, setting up to catch rain water (a
free supply of non-brackish drinking water) and mailing this year's Christmas
cards (finally!).
Week
ending 10 Jan 04 (Bob)
Winter Gales - Saturday evening we
started to feel a gentle rocking, and then a stronger swell. At about 10
PM we heard a sound like a freight train in the distance, and within 5 minutes
it was pouring and blowing 20 knots. The storm built during the night and
by 4 AM we were seeing 55 knots in the gusts, and we were somewhat protected by
larger boats. At 0730 we started to smell diesel fumes, and dug around the
engine compartment to confirm that it was not us. As the sun came up, we
started to see debris in the water and as the day unfolded we found out what had
happened: a 60-70' wooden charter boat moored between the inner and outer
breakwaters had broken it lines and was smashed on the rocks. All day the
marina crew worked on the heaving docks to clear the water of smashed planks,
life-jackets, furniture, paperwork, plastic foam, and other debris. At the
entrance to the marina all we could see were masts protruding from the water
where the hulk rested on the bottom - it was a sad and sobering incident.
The yacht next to us suffered a broken line, but fortunately were able to get a
new one connected at 4 AM with minimal damage to their stern. The marina
staff say this is unusual, but 2 dangerous storms in as many weeks is a little
scary.
Judi off to USA - As the storm raged
outside, Judi was packing her final items as she prepared for an impromptu trip
to Oregon to visit her family. Fortunately, by the time we drove to the
airport the winds were down to 20 knots and the rain was light. She is
taking the scenic route with stops in Istanbul, Milan, Newark and Los Angeles
en-route to Klamath Falls, Oregon.
Week
ending 17 Jan 04 (Bob)
Judi completes her circumnavigation - Despite
all of the dire warnings of stepped up security at airports in the US, and work
stoppages in Italy, Judi's trip to Los Angeles was l-o-n-g and tiring, but went
smoothly - even the baggage made it!. A 1-night layover at the Adventurer
Motel, our favorite backpacker's place in LA, gave her a chance to catch her
breath for the final leg to Oregon. In the process of crossing the
Atlantic, she completed her trip around the world, beating Long Passages by
probably 2 years!
Quiet in the marina - Besides Judi, crew
from half of the boats are traveling to Austria, Switzerland, Venezuela, the
USA, Australia, and other places so it is pretty quiet here. Our weekly
excursion was an 11-km hike through pretty pine forests near the marina at Kemer.
The few of us left had a good, though tiring, time. Bob is planning to
change some of the electrical power distribution system, so the interior of the
boat is gradually taking on a bombed-out look - Judi is glad to not have to put
up with it! In the aftermath of last week's storm, the hull of the yacht
that was wrecked was retrieved from the entrance to the marina, and workmen set
about trying to salvage anything that they could.
Week
ending 24 Jan 04 (Bob)
Another week - another storm - This is
getting tiresome, and this one followed the pattern established by the last one:
-
10 PM - It starts to rain, softly and
with no wind - it almost seduced me into putting out the rain-catcher, but
the forecast called for Force 10 winds.
-
Midnight - The boat starts to rock, means
there are waves making their way through the breakwaters, so it must be
windy out in the Med.
-
2 AM - The wind starts to blow, it's
in the mid-20s.
-
7 AM - Wind has built to hi 30s,
hitting 40 knots at times.
-
8 AM - Electricity goes off and phone
line is dead - so much for our infrastructure. Winds peaks in the 50s.
-
9 AM -Working to stem a few leaks,
water is being blown through the companionway boards, but so far the new
dorade boxes seem to be waterproof for the moment.
-
11 AM - It is really rocky and rolly,
winds gusts of at least 62 knots (73 mph, 117 kph) and we are straining at
our lines. I had added an extra bowline, and took up the slack every
several hours to keep us off of the dock.
1230 PM - Winds drops to 2 knots -
eerie
feeling as if we were in the eye of a hurricane. I went to explore the
dock, and found the marina crew towing a yacht from the end of our dock - it
broke both bow lines and smashed a 4' hole in her stern on the dock and
inflicted small amount of damage on Boheme, a friend from Switzerland.
Debris littered the water, and some power pylons on the dock have been
destroyed. A look at the barometer shows how it has dropped over the
last few hours.
-
1 PM - Winds come back, but at only 30
knots, and within an hour they are in the teens as it starts to clear.
Wandering the marina later in the afternoon shows
more evidence of damage, lots of scratched hulls, a 100' mast on moveable
supports blown 50' onto the roof of a car, painting canopies shredded, and the
damaged yacht, already hauled so that it would not sink. We keep telling
ourselves that this cannot be normal, this is too much damage on a recurring
basis. We will have to explore whether other marinas have the same winds
strengths, or whether the Antalya geography accelerates the winds in the area.
Week
ending 31 Jan 04 (Bob)
Bob
eats the stores - Judi's instructions, when she left for Oregon, were to
clear out the food stores that we have accumulated for offshore passages and to
tide us over places where Western food is hard to find. With zeal, he
rummaged through all lockers and found an abundance of goodies (small sample
shown) ranging from smoked salmon from NZ, creamed corn from Australia (we never
eat creamed corn), to dried beef packets (it tasted as bad as it sounds).
The goal is eat (or otherwise dispose of) it all before Judi returns to make
room for the Reese's cups she is sure to bring back!
Winter
in Turkey - The news reports from Istanbul in the north show deep snow
drifts, slippery roads, and stuck cars reminiscent of winter in New York.
Antalya, on the warm (?) Mediterranean it reputed to not get snow, and so far
that is true. However the winter gales do bring hail, and the last one
left us a calling card in the cockpit, not enough to shovel but it made for good
conversation.
Boat
projects - Living in a boat designed for US power, it has always been a
challenge operating on 220 volts in most countries outside of the US with
extension cords running everywhere for heaters and 220 volt appliances. A
re-design was called for, and so a new panel is being built to house some
controls, plus to bring the battery switching and charging functions up to the
latest recommendations. It will look something like the one to the
right---->.
Judi in Oregon - Judi continues her visit
with her sister in Oregon where all goes well. She is being inundated with
shipments from chandlers and others as Bob tries to find the limits of their
credit cards on the Internet.
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